Hydraulic Steering Install

[TheLake]

Hi there all!

I have been browsing the threads looking for information on hydraulic steering. In my renovations I have pulled out all the old hydraulics as part of my engine room revamp.

I am now ready to look at rerunning the hydraulic lines and installing new hydraulic heads and piston.

I would appreciate words of wisdom. I am thinking of the Seastar Capilano system as I think it most closely matches what I pulled out.

I am having a bit of a hard time finding the heads and pistons. Any suggestions?

I am trying to figure out what to run and how to run it. I have two main options: along the roof of the engine room and then drop down to the piston by the rudder posts...or to run it along (or in) the bilges which might have some ups and downs as I route around things. Any thoughts on best approach?

I am also trying to figure out the best piping. From what I read it looks like flexible hydraulic hose isn't the best due to the lengths involved. And most of the recommendations are for copper. Thoughts? Can I get custom hydraulic flexible hoses made and simplify by using those or should I stick with running copper?

For copper...it looks like it recommends "refrigerant" copper. Does this different from the plumbing copper found in stores like home depot? Am I going to be able to get a flexible long coil that I can work with no joints between the helm(s) and the piston? Or will it be the 8 or 10' straight lengths that I have to join?

Just starting to plan for this so lots of just trying to figure out the basics right now.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Portage_Bay]

I completely overhauled a hydraulic steering system a few years ago. I found a local shop to do the helm pumps, steering ram and AP pump. No need to buy new unless they are very badly worn. Open them up and have a look for scoring, corrosion and the like. If you have a clean place to work and are careful the work can be DIY.

For lines I used copper where it made sense and hydrualic hose where it was difficult to run the copper lines. One consideration was I had long runs where I could not reach the lines, copper or hose to secure them. Copper refrigeration lines should be secured about every 18". According to the equipment manufacturer's installation instructions the boat's vibration can work harden and weaken the lines if not well supported. The builder did that and had the tubing in rubber hose for chafe protection. It worked for 39 yrs before I took it all out.

For copper yes use refrigeration tubing. Yes you can get it in flexible coils. Do keep in mind that repeated bending will work harden the copper. You need to know the relief pressure in your system. What is that pressure when the rudder hits a hard stop and the relief valve(s) open. That will be much higher than the normal operating pressure. Your tubing needs to be rated for that and better more. Here's one source that may be of help in understanding pressure ratings for tubing. Copper Tubes Type K, L and M - Working Pressures vs. Size

I'm anal about making proper copper connections for critical systems like steering. Square cuts, deburred, annealed and double flared. I've had too many leaks when I do not go that extra distance. Buy good tools. It matters. Only use flare joints, not compression.

For hydrualic hose I used heavy duty 2 wire hose on the advice of a very good tech. It works fine, there is no mushiness, the stops at the end of the movements are hard stops. This indicates to me that if there is any flex in the lines it is so minor as not to matter. The length of the hoses is about 25' run through the bilge, the upper part that never sees water. It made the job easy.

A well quoted "rule" is to put the AP pump near the ram. The builder of my boat put it in the engine room where access is easy and the pump does not suffer from corrosion. So I put it back there. Hydrualic hose from the ram to the AP pump and reservoir. It's a Hynautic system, the reservoir can be put anywhere in the system. Copper from there to the helm pumps where I could easily install it and it took less space in the cable ways. It's too bad Hynautics is gone and done. Seastar took 'em for a while then let them die off. There is a big advantages to the Hynautic sytem. It is a sealed system, the oil never has a chance to collect moisture, dust or other contaminants.