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Something’s rotten in Denmark! I don’t think you got the same transmission back from the shop, 8”lift is not reasonable, and if the removal job had been done correctly, no realignment would have been required, provided that it was in alignment previously.

The original configuration included a secondary “backing rudder” that is completely bogus, hopefully it’s already been removed. The hull tends to be a bit rolly, but I’ve run it in some very bad water, and it handles it well. The hull is super economical to operate, takes less than 40 hp to...

You might be able to get some professional input/advice on sbmar.com. Tony Athens is a very proficient and experienced Cummins Guru, and is willing to share his knowledge freely!

Are your new tanks built yet? If not, you should consider adding a sump with a drain fitting to each tank. If not, place the dip tubes as close to the bottom of the tank as possible, so that any any water or debris can be dealt with by your filters, and not become permanent residents in your...

I can’t tell if the hanging portion is a soffit or a delaminated core. I’d cut a hole in it to investigate further.

A word of caution re bedliner products, these can be extremely difficult to remove! If you’re dead set on using it, make super sure that compatibility and surface preparation is 100%, because if it starts coming off in patches, you’ll have to remove it all.

I’ve got the same situation with a long, shallow bilge and no sump pit. Rain and spray come in through poorly designed deck hatches, so I’ve finally resorted to a large shop vac with a small bilge pump mounted inside of it. Noisy and manual, but it will remove almost all of the bilge water.

This could well be the reason that Mr Athens recommends leaving the seacock open when flushing. Even if the dock water supply volume is lower than the pumps ingestion rate, the salt content will be greatly reduced, enough that you should see significant improvement in the life of the zincs. Also...

I think you’re looking at the port for the sensor (thermocouple) of an exhaust gas temperature gauge.

HP pump shaft seals can be a source of diesel in the oil sump.

Be careful! I recently dropped a brand new group 27 from West Marine when the handle slipped out of its slot. Glad it wasn’t an 8D. My foot hurts!

The shaft should slide out through the hole in the rudder, but you’ll probably have to disconnect the linkage and a rudder stop to swing it to 90*. It is poor design practice to block ready access to steering gear, or any item that may require maintenance. I like to have a bypass valve on the...

Local conditions will play a big part in deciding which to use. The under hull strainers will do pretty well for most large-medium sized debris and sea grass, but will not exclude sand and silt from from your cooling system. I utilize both types of strainer, and call it cheap insurance...

I found a gasket from a plastic 55 gallon barrel bung fit perfectly.

Melamine is a vinyl coating, try cleaning it with a specific plastic cleaner and follow that up with some 303 protectant.

I’m all about using G-10 for backing plates. Why would you core your hull at a thru hull with a material that will rot?

These are overlaid, held in place with a double row of VHB and caulked with 5200 to seal edges. Used Krylon paint to black out the edges, it is formulated to bond with plastics. No leaks or problems with the bond since 2016. I used Lexan 3/8”, due to some irregularities in the framing, surface...

The incident I described was their failure of a poorly manufactured part at a random moment in time, no other factors contributing. The OPs incident may have been the same, having nothing to do with the grounding. I also had lots of smoke, due to the circ pump lockup burning the belt. Here’s...

I once had an overheat with plenty of raw water flowing through the seawater system and out the exhaust pipe. Turns out that the coolant circulating pump failed! It had some sort of an anti cavitation plate spot welded to the vanes, the ring came off and got chewed on by the vanes, resulting...

If you install it in a tee off of the oil line to the cooler, make sure it’s the output side! The other hose carries cooled oil back to the transmission. I’d use a Murphy gauge with an alarm, or eliminate the gauge altogether and use an over temp switch to a buzzer. Visit Aqualarm website...

As per Ken and ComoDaves comments above, I’d keep shopping. Cummins sells more diesel motors than anybody, and parts and service are available worldwide.

I use Syntef liberally all over everything when installing packing, it fills any voids, and helps lubricate the shaft during the critical moments of initial startup. I would not reinstall the old packing, the cost is minimal, and cheap insurance, same as an impeller.

I’ve used Duramax for about 10 years also, and GFO on other boats I work on, with no problems at all from the graphite. Damage might occur if the stuff were left idle for a long period of time in salt water, but that also goes for any type of packing. I really appreciate the simplicity of a...

Groko does make strainers that are called self cleaning, is that what is in your boat? If not, it’s very unlikely that the strainer cleared itself after shutdown.

Most Trawlers can and do get away with some degree of overprop, without short term damage, but the problem I see is that if/when you are pressed into running the motor hard, old man Murphy will be right there! Bad weather, strong current, or towing can put the overloaded motor in the red zone...